Reliable Pistol

[BrainStorm]

Two thoughts.

A good friend of mine, Todd Green, has made a business out of sponsored endurance tests. He put over 60,000 rounds through an M&P and over 90,000 rounds through a P30 before failure. Teachers and Students of the Pistol

Any mechanical device is subject to unexpected failure. Whatever you choose, have a plan B for when it does.

[Buffalobob]

Plan B.

[Buffalobob]

I did as I was told and went to the gunshop and they had no gun butter but they had the Militec and the TW 25B so that is what I bought. I also got some better ammo also. I field stripped it and there was hardened grease in the slide rails and after some work with carb cleaner and Gun Scrubber, I got the grease softened up enough to get most of it out. Then I coated it with the Militec and used a heat gun on it. Then I lubed the rails and called it good.

The empty PMC brass was loaded back up with max (not +P) loads of HS6 and Power Pistol and Hornady 90 and 115 gr XTP.

Took the pistol back to the range and it was just a different gun all together. There was almost no recoil and very little right twist any more. Everything feed perfectly without a single stoppage. The funny thing is that the 124 Golden Saber +P had less muzzle movement than the PMC ammo had the first time around.

The whole issues seems to have been the hardened factory grease and once that was gone it was really smooth and pleasant.

[CHRISTIN]

G L O C K ... (imho), your best choice for reliability and function. In Bagdad, I carried a G19 in a Fobus rig, and I'm sure there are many of you out there that chose the same sidearm / holster combo... you can't beat perfection.

[frostfire]

Originally Posted by Ken Brock

the most important place to put lube on a Glock is on the connector, where the trigger bar contacts

if you don't put lube anywhere else, put it there

I wasn't sure where this is. For those in the same boat:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/06...s/DSC07117.jpg

Come to think of it, that part came from the factory with significant amount of copper lubricant just like on the rails. One of these days, I'll take the armorer course.

[dr. mabuse]

*

[Ken Brock]

Originally Posted by frostfire

I wasn't sure where this is. For those in the same boat:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/06...s/DSC07117.jpg

Come to think of it, that part came from the factory with significant amount of copper lubricant just like on the rails. One of these days, I'll take the armorer course.

the Armorer's course

6 hours of how great Gaston Glock is and 2 hours of actually working on guns

that's partly a joke, but there's a little truth there too

the Armorer's course is pretty interesting

[fatleg]

Originally Posted by Buffalobob

Plan B.

What vintage is your Gerber?

[Buffalobob]

The Gerber was purchased in 1969 most likely at Ranger Joe's at Ft Benning. It went with me to RVN and never ever saw the top a a C-ration. I carried a M-16 bayonet as a work knife and it was one of the most worthless pieces of steel ever invented. Now the old M-1 bayonet which was about four feet long and could reach out there and gouge somebody at a respectable distance was a fine piece of hardware except for the rifle it was attached to was a little on the heavy side and slow on the cyclic rate.

[Juliet Delta]

The most important aspect of lubrication is having it in the first place.

I've been using 20w motor oil for a year or better now, and it's doing everything I want it to.

Hackathorn told us how he has been using 5w synthetic for years now, too.

I've used pretty much everything other than TW25B, but I still haven't found a reason to stop using synthetic motor oil, yet.

[Boomer-61]

Reaper,
How long and at what temp do you heat the parts for lubrication with the Militec-1?
Boomer

[Buffalobob]

The instructions are on the bottle. It says to heat to "operating temperature" by either firing or a heat gun and then wipe dry. I assumed operating temperature was somewhere less than glowing redhot. So I heated it to mild warm with a heat gun and wiped it dry enough that it wouldn't attract dust.

[lonewolf726]

I use the same Mobile ! synthetic oil that I use in my vehicles on my weapons, and TW25-B on the parts where grease is better than oil. Never had a problem.

[Boomer-61]

Thank you for that clarification Buffalobob.

[Buffalobob]

(Note to the readers—This post is tied to this thread
http://www.professionalsoldiers.com/...ead.php?t=7477
but I did not want to put it on that thread for fear someone would know even less than me and believe I was showing how to do things correctly)

I have decided to try my hand at shooting pistol competition of one form or another. So I looked up on the internet (which we know is populated extensively with intelligent people) some recommended loads that would make the power factor for a 9mm. It seemed like most everyone was using Titegroup and the cheapest bullets they could find in 124 grains and stuffing it in the cheapest assortment of brass they could scavenge. I loaded up some mixed brass with Titegroup and Speer 124 plinkers. Once the snow was supposedly gone from the back roads I headed to the range. I carried along some max load 115 Gold Cup HPs and some max load Lapua 123 RNs which I know have reasonable accuracy.

Having read some portions of the Army pistol marksmanship manual and looked at the picture of TS’s recommended grip, I decided to video my shooting style to see if it would provide me any insights to errors. One of the important things to know is that TS doesn’t shoot a glock!!! Right where he puts his weak side thumb is the Glock take down detent button. The first shot one notices that the detent button has sharp edges and the second shot one notices that they actually hurt and that shooting still again does not make it any less painful. Unfortunately, the Glock is recessed right there and the thumb really likes to slide up into that recess. I found that to be highly humorous. In the first video one will notice that on shot #7, I anticipate the shot and flinch. You will also notice I keep changing the weak side grip as I never get it the way that feels secure, and I am practicing for scuba diving as I never take a breath.

http://www.youtube.com/user/Microcys.../6/c1ErxdrhuWs

After a few videos of me, I move the camera to the target and began shooting different loads. Up first is the supposedly great IDPA load with the 124 Speer RN and Titegroup. Distance is exactly 20 yards and the tape is 1.5 inch painters tape. The bottom group was the same load. Both are shot freehand.

http://www.youtube.com/user/Microcys.../4/cupNECVSdBo

I am not happy with the groups from the 124 so I decide to shoot some 115s which I know produce decent accuracy and are what I keep in the mags when the pistol is at home.

http://www.youtube.com/user/Microcys.../3/xhdTDvWx-Jk

I decide to try the 115s with my hands rested on the bench to see what the difference in groups size is from unsupported

http://www.youtube.com/user/Microcys.../2/v3vQuA7OlcI


The load I keep in the gun for black bears when elk hunting is 123 gr lapuas at +P. So I decide to try it unsupported. It shoots so well that I believe it is just luck and shoot a second mag to see if it is repeatable. Morale of the story is you don’t want to be a bear and try to steal my elk. One bullet gets away from me when I do not relax the trigger very far and have started the squeeze before the sight picture is fully restored or vice versa.

http://www.youtube.com/user/Microcys.../1/Lu2tPyHNuLQ

Being as I am now having a good time and the gun is hitting what I am shooting at; I try the 123 Lapuas with my hands rested on the bench. Watch the left to right three shot pattern repeat itself. I wonder if I am resetting my grip every three rounds or just decide to come up for air.

http://www.youtube.com/user/Microcys.../0/ws_Y5afvgo4


So after spending a lot of time researching good IDPA loads I find that I already had a good load. Unfortunately the Lapua bullets are expensive IIRC.