LOL

I can run that bit in a standard drill?


I'm not worried about the speed I will just use more leverage and force to compensate :D

Friggin camera rechargeable battery is dead...
SOMEONE didn't do their job here at the office. :mad:

Anyway, Joe just shoot me a Pm with a mailing address. I will put a few different burs in an envelope and send them this afternoon.

They are extremely small headed/small shank burs but most standard drills adjust down to where the prongs will actually touch each other so they should tighten down onto these burs too. I am sending a few carbide burs with a diamond or two that may work just as good, they just tend to dull down quickly so change it out if it cuts to slowly.

A dremmel is a friction grip that is only set for a certain size shank so these will not work in a dremmel. Your regular drill should work though.

Remember, use lube and light pressure- let the DRILL and bur do the work not you muscle man. LOL hahaha Take you time... these burs are not going to rip into that metal...let them do their magic.

Your first cut notch needs to be deep enough to allow for adequate torque to be put on the bolt with the screwdriver. If you make it to shallow, you will buggar up the top of the bolt and have to cut farther down into the bolt which will be harder to access as you get down into the mount itself.
Good thing is... as long as you don't cut into the mount- you can do no more harm than you alreay have. You will always be able to bring it to a gunsmith and get it taken out. Good Luck

Thanks Sacamuelas,

PM Inbound

Its sent. BTW- I would go ahead and start hitting that sucker with a little drop or two of penetrating oil...since you torqued it tight enough to break the bolt then you may want to lessen the amount of force used with the screwdriver to remove it by any way possible. :lifter



edited to add:
Kevin B.- I sent you a PM a while ago. You may want to change your PM settings to pop a box up or something when you get one.

You can get smaller collets for the Dremel !! They make several different sizes.

Also, Heat up the Base with a Hot Hair Drier and the Aluminum should expand faster that the Steel Screw and make it easier to extract!!! Also, repeated heating and cooling will "work" the penetrating oil down into the threads.

Is Tri-Flow a good penetrating oil? Or should I stick with CLP?

WOO HOOOO
 

Well Gentlemen I did it I unscrewed my screw up.

Thank you Sacamuelas for the bits they were invaluable.

I tried your idea of drilling several holes in line to try and get a screwdriver in there to unscrew the torque but it didn't work. (Mind you I don't have a drill press just a drill stabilizer) The drill kept slipping in to the original hole. So, I just pre-drilled the hole then used a 3/32nd titanium bit to drill the screw all the way out AND IT DIDN'T EVEN TOUCH THE THREADS ON THE INSIDE OF THE MOUNT. :eek:

I was ecstatic I couldn't believe it.

Thanks again for your help and ideas guys you saved me. (Yet again)

Photos to follow this evening.

That is great news Joe. Congrats...

NOw , remember what the Team Sergeant said..... TORQUE WRENCH!!! LOL :lifter

Here is a pic of my B.S. drill press so you can appericate why the bit kept slipping.

After about a half hour of fighting with by B.S. press before I finally used a 3/32nd bit to finish the job.

I'm sorry.
 

That ain't a drill press...that's a thingamajig!

Re: I'm sorry.
 

Aboslutely....I couldn't justifiy buying a 100+ dollar drill press just to drill out this torque....so I used what I already had on hand. It sucked pretty bad using it but in the end it did what I needed it to do.:)

Nothing I have seen penetrates better than Kroil. It is even better than 3 in 1, Marvel Mystery Oil.

Strong stuff!

TR

Kroil? Have to remember that one, one of the best I have used so far was PB Blaster. Mopar and GM both have pretty good branded rust penetrators. I also like LH Drill Extractors, not sure if they make them small enough for gunsmith work though.

You can get Kroil from Brownells, MidwayUSA, or direct from the Kano factory.

It is a great bore cleaner adjunct as well. There is no comparison between WD-40, Liquid Wrench, etc. and Kroil from
Kano Labs.

Kroil is a creeping oil, it will eat rust crystals, and it will creep into
spaces as tight as 1/1,000,000th of an inch.

There is no equal to Kroil.


"Mfr: KANO LABS

The Oil That Creeps

A lubricating and penetrating oil that flows into the tiniest of crevices, lifts away lead and copper jacket fouling, frees up super-tight barrels, loosens frozen screws and bolts. Dissolves dried grease and oil, displaces water, without harming metal. Works great for getting underneath and loosening built-up carbon, copper and lead fouling in shotgun, rifle and pistol barrels.

SPECS: Kroil Pour Can - 8 fl.oz (237 ml). Kroil Aerosol Can - 13 oz. (385 ml)."


TR

My experience is automotive, 12 years mostly in new car dealerships, so I never heard of Kroil before. I am however always open to trying something that may do a better job. Does the Kroil aerosol foam slightly when applied, and then slowly disappear into the fitting? The automotive penetrators I mentioned (PB Blaster, Mopar Rust Penetrator) that work very well all seem to do that. WD and Liquid Wrench are light lubricants, they don't work very well on rusted or broken fittings. I would actually rather pour some brake fluid on one if those two were all I had on hand.

I have never used the aerosol, just the squirt can. No foam there, sorry.

Had a shooting buddy running a large farm who was using it on his rifles. His gun room is in his shop and he grabbed the Kroil as the closest thing one day when trying to break free a rusted nut. Next day all of the other penetrating oils in the shop were in his trash and he was calling to order more Kroil.

Personally, I have rounded off some shoulders on some nuts and had them come loose after Kroil and a few minutes to sit.

The Kroil, JB Bore Paste, Shooters' Choice, and Sweets' 7.62 are my cleaning chemicals.

HTH.

TR

Have you ever tried mpro7 instead of the shooter's choice? I dont use the shooter's choice any more after buying a gallon of this stuff.

Negative.

I have about 1/2 gallon of the SC left, and a lot of years of using it without regret.

TR

I shot both in the last two days - I vote for the EOTECH, but both are nice.

Why?

EO Tech was faster for me to aquire, and I like the image better.

Used the Aimpoint (Comp ML2) in the past years and was very pleased in its performance.

I used an older model Eo Tech in competition last year and found that i could accuire targets faster with it.

The Eo Tech 551 model is on the buy list at this time..

After seeing the eotech in action on several different weapons in CQB I am kind of split on the two. I was never a fan of it until now. I own 2 aimpoints but an eotech will be on my buy list as well.

Tuukka-What is the Weapon on the right hand edge of this pic?

It looks like a magazine feed pump shotgun?

Looks like a Saiga (of some variety) to me.

It is a Franchi SPAS 15.

Thanks