Precision Rifle

[BigJimCalhoun]

Originally Posted by Buffalobob

The sling stud on the stock will catch and cause disturbances during recoil. It has to be removed in order for the rifle to recoil the exact same way each time.

As far as rear bags go, there are two uses. For competition where weight is no issue I use a Protektor heavy bottom rabbit ear with heavy sand.

I only have one rifle and I need the sling/swivels on mine for hunting, but I took what you said under advisement and made sure the swivels were not in contact with anything and I also added a rear bag. I was able to shoot my best ever - slightly under 2 inches @ 200 yards. I think this result eliminates my rifle as a source of my previous inaccuracies.

[Ramirez]

My last two groups from the rifle w/ the new AICS and trigger were under 1/2 MOA. .388 and .408 @ 100 yards.

[MVP]

Ramierez,

Remington originally designed the flats on the barrel for add-on weights. As I recall you can use the adhesive versions sold for balancing wheels. The added advantage is you can move the weights around to adjust the overall balance of the rifle.

BTW: Keep the scope covers but reposition the scope as far forward as possible for your most likely shooting position so you do not have the objective near your eye.



MVP

[Ramirez]

Originally Posted by MVP

Ramierez,

Remington originally designed the flats on the barrel for add-on weights. As I recall you can use the adhesive versions sold for balancing wheels. The added advantage is you can move the weights around to adjust the overall balance of the rifle.

BTW: Keep the scope covers but reposition the scope as far forward as possible for your most likely shooting position so you do not have the objective near your eye.



MVP

Are you speaking to the flat countor of the barrel? Do I want anything hanging off my barrel? I would think that would defet the free floating that I've got going with the AICS.

Thanks

Ryan


edit, the barrel will be the next thing replaced on this rifle.

[MVP]

Just lay the weights in rows along the three flats. Should not contact the stock if you use only one row per flat.

MVP

[Ramirez]

Originally Posted by MVP

Just lay the weights in rows along the three flats. Should not contact the stock if you use only one row per flat.

MVP

The channel has a lot of room left. I'm sure I could fit two barrels in there if I needed I like the weight the way it is, I don't shoot it off hand enough to weight it down more for balance. I will say it feels more balanced with this chassis vs. the B&C stock on the rifle before. I'm not sure how good I can get the groups down much more than I already have, but I"m going to try with hand loads pretty soon. Then it's off to a new barrel.

[MVP]

adding the weights out near the muzzle will slow the movement (drift across the target) creating a steadier hold. Out near the muzzle you can also double-up the rows stacking one on top of another.

M.

[Ramirez]

Originally Posted by MVP

adding the weights out near the muzzle will slow the movement (drift across the target) creating a steadier hold. Out near the muzzle you can also double-up the rows stacking one on top of another.

M.

Do you use these? I think I've seen something similar on handguns, is this the same idea? Kinda of like a USP match ( think tomb rader and don't slap me for that)

[MVP]

Unfortunately none of my guns have the flats. The adhesive on the weights should be sufficient but you could wrap the barrel/weights with some camouflage bow tape to make sure they don't fall off if you struck something with the barrel. As a reserve you could also put a bunch of the weights in your "sand sock" so if one ever fell off you would have a replacement.

BTW: Guns with light round barrels can be weighted with lead wire used for soldering. The wire is wrapped around the barrel and held with the camouflage tape. (Old SOF trick)



M.

[Ramirez]

Originally Posted by MVP

Unfortunately none of my guns have the flats. The adhesive on the weights should be sufficient but you could wrap the barrel/weights with some camouflage bow tape to make sure they don't fall off if you struck something with the barrel. As a reserve you could also put a bunch of the weights in your "sand sock" so if one ever fell off you would have a replacement.

BTW: Guns with light round barrels can be weighted with lead wire used for soldering. The wire is wrapped around the barrel and held with the camouflage tape. (Old SOF trick)



M.

Learn something new every day.


Thanks

[Dusty]

Originally Posted by Ramirez

Are you speaking to the flat countor of the barrel? Do I want anything hanging off my barrel? I would think that would defet the free floating that I've got going with the AICS.

Thanks

Ryan


edit, the barrel will be the next thing replaced on this rifle.

Which barrel will you be using?

[Ramirez]

Originally Posted by Dusty

Which barrel will you be using?

I'm not sure just yet. It's just going to be a 20 inch heavy barrel. I think my gunsmith sells shilen and krieger.

[koz]

Originally Posted by Ramirez

I'm not sure just yet. It's just going to be a 20 inch heavy barrel. I think my gunsmith sells shilen and krieger.

Go with the Krieger - or if he can get a Bartlein, they are very nice too. You can't go wrong with either of these.

[Dusty]

Originally Posted by Ramirez

I'm not sure just yet. It's just going to be a 20 inch heavy barrel. I think my gunsmith sells shilen and krieger.

"Heavy barrel"-good idea. IMO, the heavier the barrel, the more accurate it is. (to a certain point)

I had a Shilen fluted put on mine one time. Too light.

Post a pic when you get it replaced, eh?

[Ramirez]

Originally Posted by Dusty

"Heavy barrel"-good idea. IMO, the heavier the barrel, the more accurate it is. (to a certain point)

I had a Shilen fluted put on mine one time. Too light.

Post a pic when you get it replaced, eh?

Gotta build up some funds, but I'm hoping to soon. I shoot the damn thing so much, I never have any money!