Reliable Pistol

[Streck-Fu]

Originally Posted by The Reaper

I do not believe that the slides are the same for all of those rounds, or all you would need to convert is a barrel.

The 9x19 and the .40/.357 SIG have different case head diameters, and consequently, different breech faces, not to mention slide weight is probably different.

TR

I used to own a G23 originally in .40. For variety, I purchased the .357 Sig barrel and 9mm barrel to shoot those rounds as well.

For the 9mm, only a barrel and G19 magazines were needed. Some recommend the G19 extractor while many say it is not necessary.

Right or wrong, I put a few thousand 9mm rounds through the G23 using only the conversion barrel and magazines and the G23 extractor never failed to pull the brass. Just my experience, nothing more. I never advise to use the 9mm on the G23 slide for defensive use but it worked well for me as a plinking rig at the range.

I eventually sold the pistol for my current XD9 which I like much better. The Glocks, to me, are the AK-47 of the handgun world; Damn reliable and accurate enough. I just really like the fell of the XD much better.

[Buffalobob]

I went and shot the Glock 34 yesterday. It brought back remembrances of the part of the debriefing sessions called “Lessons Learned”.

1. This is not a good home defense weapon. A bucket of rocks would be better because you can only throw the glock once but with a bucket you can just keep on throwing rocks.

2. Building on #1 above the Glock is obviously a member to the local pistol union and as such the shop steward has determined it only has to feed and fire ammo costing more than fifty cents a round. It is under no obligation to feed cheap PMC ammo.

3. PMC ammo will not even cycle the action far enough to clear the case in the chamber a lot of times.

4. The meaning of the term “ limp wrist” shooters finally penetrated the depth of my cortex and became understandable.

5. The cure for limpwrist syndrome has certain characteristics similar to the 60mm knee fired mortar. You can only cure it once by putting your off side hand such that your thumb over laps on the top of your gun hand as you would a revolver.

6. Tumbling your cheap PMC brass with your 460S&W brass may save energy but it is dumb as all get out. The 9mm brass will go down into the bottom of the 460 brass and the vibrations will cause media to wedge between the case walls and stick the 9mm brass tight in the bottom. It requires looking in each case with a flashlight to be sure you don’t have the doubled up cases. Trying to get it out is an exercise for Jane Goodall and the chimps. The 460 is a roll crimp so stuff hangs at the mouth. Of course if you miss one that is all right, as soon as you break your decapping pin you will figure out that there is a case inside a case.

7. Paying $252 for 1000 pieces of new Lapua brass is starting to look intelligent being as the gun obviously likes to have some chamber pressure and Lapua brass (at least in a rifle) will tolerate a lot of chamber pressure.

8. I should have just stuck with the 469S&W. Its slow as trying to eat cold oatmeal, but you only got to hit a person once with it. The muzzle blast alone would fry the hair off his head.


Other than all of that, if you feed it moderately priced ammo it will put every round in a four inch circle at 25 yards just time and time again. In all seriousness its probably a very good pistol and I would never have bought cheap ammo except I wanted it for the brass to reload. It did fine with ammo that would actually cause the slide to go all the way to the rear stop.

[JJ_BPK]

Originally Posted by Buffalobob

I went and shot the Glock 34 yesterday. It brought back remembrances of the part of the debriefing sessions called “Lessons Learned”.

I love a check list that comes together,, After the fact..

I suspect that after a couple hundred rounds you may be able to fire even Wolf steel-case.. I have a G 23 that loves anything as long as it's FMJ.

[koz]

I'm a little surprised that the PMC wouldn't cycle but it is Korean. It seems that Glocks take about 200 rounds to break in. I've shot new Glocks with the Winchester white box bulk ammo with no problems. In my G34 - I loaded crap brass with Winchester 231 4.5 ~ 4.6grains, CCI or Winchester SP primers, and 115gr FMJs. That was plenty even in a new pistol.

My 8yr daughter shoots mine and can manage not to limp-wrist... That's all I have to say about that.

As far as the brass tumbling... If you want to mix brass, get the Lyman brass baggie It keeps the brass separate.

Give her a chance - you'll like her.

[The Reaper]

I have a Glock 17 that I bought, installed a target trigger, lubed, and took directly to a tactical class.

I put more than 5,000 rounds of Remington yellow box ammo through it with zero malfunctions.

TR

[Buffalobob]

I have a Glock 17 that I bought, installed a target trigger, lubed, and took directly to a tactical class

Where and with what do you lube it?

My 8yr daughter shoots mine and can manage not to limp-wrist... That's all I have to say about that.

My daughter beats me so regularly at F-class that I just wear a hat that says "Coach".

[LarryW]

"Coach"...

I have to remember that.

[koz]

Originally Posted by Buffalobob

Where and with what do you lube it?

I use Gun Butter. I put a little bit on the contact points on the slide.

[The Reaper]

Originally Posted by Buffalobob

Where and with what do you lube it?

I lube it like a 1911, mostly on the rails/rail guides, a little on the barrel-slide contact areas, anywhere there is metal on metal contact.

I like Mil-Tech or TW-25B grease for my guns.

TR

[Ambush Master]

Originally Posted by The Reaper

I lube it like a 1911, mostly on the rails/rail guides, a little on the barrel-slide contact areas, anywhere there is metal on metal contact.

I like Mil-Tech or TW-25B grease for my guns.

TR

Mil-Tech, when you heat the parts up, they can be wiped DRY and they are still SLICK!!!

As I've posted previously, apply Mil-Tech and heat up the parts with a Hair-Dryer until they are almost too hot to handle. Let them cool and wipe them DRY!!!

The lubricity that remains is UNBELIEVEABLE!! The stuff molecularly bonds with the surfaces.

IT WORKS!!!!

Later
Martin

[Ken Brock]

Originally Posted by Buffalobob

Where and with what do you lube it?




.

the most important place to put lube on a Glock is on the connector, where the trigger bar contacts

if you don't put lube anywhere else, put it there

[Red Flag 1]

Bob,

Pretty much as TR said, rails with MILTEC ; NSN 9150-01-415-9112. Also a great lube for inkjet printers. There are Teflon products that work well too.

If you'd like I can hook you up with my brother at the FBI Firearms Training Unit at Quantico...pm me!

RF 1

[craigepo]

Too many lubes being thrown out at one time.

Mil-tech, TW-25B, or Gun Butter.

Anybody able to compare?

[Utah Bob]

My department switched from S&W 686s to Glocks about 1989. I was an instructor and I never liked the looks or feel of the 17. I was also issued a 14 and eventually a 26 for plain clothes wear. Then we switched to 21s and I was happy until I retired.
Felt good, shot good, fed reliably and used the proper 45acp round.

[The Reaper]

Originally Posted by craigepo

Too many lubes being thrown out at one time.

Mil-tech, TW-25B, or Gun Butter.

Anybody able to compare?

Militec-1 is an oil that enters the pores of the metal if properly heated and leaves a lubricating residue or film behind.

TW-25B is a grease. I like grease for the rails and reciprocating parts as it usually sticks better than oil.

I have no experience with Gun Butter.

My experience has been to coat all of the metal surfaces with Militec and heat it up for the bonding. Then I use the TW-25B to lube all of the engagement surfaces.

This technique actually left the Glock slide a bit slippery to manipulate, even after the excess was wiped off. To this day it feels almost like an NP-3 gun to my touch.

HTH.

TR