11-21-2008, 18:08
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#31
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Area Commander
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyobanim
For a person interested in learning how to work kydex, what would be appropriate as a test item to start off with as a learning experience?
Also, would a coping saw work as a good cutting tool?
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I started with a small pistol and a small fixed blade knife. Like I stated before I'm no professional, but I found that just jumping in there and mixing it up so to speak worked for me. As you know you can only read about something for so long for before you just have to try it. I also use a guarded optimistic ever evolving approach where I always try to learn more as I go. But trial and error has been a good instructor for me.
The best thing about Kydex is if you don't like what you made, you can throw it back in the oven for a do over (provided you haven't made any cuts or drilled any holes).
Just mix it up Kyo you will be amazed how easy it is. And if you want I have a crap "how to make stuff out of kydex" dvd I can mail you
-Good luck
__________________
"This is the law: The purpose of fighting is to win. There is no possible victory in defense. The sword is more important than the shield and skill is more important than either. The final weapon is the brain. All else is supplemental." - John Steinbeck, "The Law"
Last edited by Smokin Joe; 11-21-2008 at 18:12.
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Smokin Joe is offline
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11-21-2008, 18:14
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#32
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Bladesmith to the Quiet Professionals
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Oregon, Land of the Silver Grey Sunsets
Posts: 3,886
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyobanim
For a person interested in learning how to work kydex, what would be appropriate as a test item to start off with as a learning experience?
Also, would a coping saw work as a good cutting tool?
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Kyo,
I think the coping saw would be fine. Anything that works wood, works Kydex even easier.
Round rasps will cut the small corners, files and sandpaper work good on Kydex and medium steel wool is a fast way to finish the edges.
Ken, I'm going out to try the tin snips on some Kydex, never would have thought of that myself. I think if you measured Kens grip strength it would be somewhere between neanderthal and superman. Not sure if that will work for me.
Smokin Joe, you now own the first PS.com "Redneck Sheathmakers Award of the Year" for using your wifes "srubby" to finish Kydex.
Don't you folks have hardware stores at your location?
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Bill Harsey is offline
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11-21-2008, 18:33
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#33
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Quiet Professional
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: DFW Texas Area
Posts: 4,741
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The stuff on the green side of the sponge is Scotch-Brite. Very useful stuff and not real aggressive. We use it a lot on aircraft sheet metal work.
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Martin sends.
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Ambush Master is offline
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11-21-2008, 18:33
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#34
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Area Commander
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Harsey
Smokin Joe, you now own the first PS.com "Redneck Sheathmakers Award of the Year" for using your wifes "srubby" to finish Kydex.
Don't you folks have hardware stores at your location?
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Yahooo! my wife will be so proud of my new achievement.
Yes, but when I was in my old house (when I picked up working with kydex) I ran out of sandpaper once and used an old scrubby. It worked so well I just continued to use it.
__________________
"This is the law: The purpose of fighting is to win. There is no possible victory in defense. The sword is more important than the shield and skill is more important than either. The final weapon is the brain. All else is supplemental." - John Steinbeck, "The Law"
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Smokin Joe is offline
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11-22-2008, 11:45
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#35
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Bladesmith to the Quiet Professionals
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Oregon, Land of the Silver Grey Sunsets
Posts: 3,886
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ambush Master
The stuff on the green side of the sponge is Scotch-Brite. Very useful stuff and not real aggressive. We use it a lot on aircraft sheet metal work.
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AM,
correct and Scotch Brite is aluminum oxide bonded to the coarse entanglement fiber that makes the stuff. Why is this good to know? Because if you use it to scrub bugs off your motorcycle chrome it will leave scratch marks. Same with knife blades.
Ken,
Tried the sheet metal snips last night on some tenth of an inch thick Kydex. Kinda tough to cut because the snips have smooth edges and it pushed the work away more than cutting it.
So I tried the aviation snips that had fine toothed edges and they cut pretty good but I'm sticking to the bandsaw  .
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Bill Harsey is offline
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11-23-2008, 21:01
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#36
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Redneck Knifemaker
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 174
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Mr. Bill,
the snips I use are advertised as tin snips but they have very small serrations. My forearms are pretty strong.......................from a lot of excercise
Ambush Master,
The way I finish kydex is to grind it to shape with a 60 grit belt and then finish with a Scotchbrite belt on my grinder
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Ken Brock is offline
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12-02-2008, 22:20
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#37
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Asset
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smokin Joe
Dremel and final sanding is done with the green side of the wife's used dish sponge.
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That's called scotch-brite  I use it too as a machinist for fine finishes on aluminum and what not. The dish stuff is just a fine hair less abrasive then the lightest coarseness of pad Scotch-Brite actually sells to the industrial suppliers. Works wonders as well when used with plastic polish to get a really nice and professional looking semi-opaque finish on acrylics and most of the clear thermoplastics that I work with. If you can cut a disc of it (little sponge left is ok, or just buy the pads) and attach it to a dremel, it also works wonders for getting a high-gloss transparent finish on those same plastics, with liberal use of plastic polish and careful mind to turn or mill it correctly and use the right cutting fluid (mineral oil actually works best).
As for cutting Kydex for the rough work, I've successfully used the wood saw on my Leatherman Charge to good effect, works on PVC sheet as well. The shortness of the blade combined with the good grip from the leatherman actually makes it my preferred tool for remnant cutting for rough work. I don't make sheaths, but I've done ALOT of thin plastic work. The only down side is that the blade cuts at 3/16 thick, which leaves a lot to be filed/sanded/polished down. Only works for stuff 1/8 and thinner, more than that and the material keeps binding the saw when it flexes.
__________________
"Be as beneficient as sun or sea, but when your rights as a rational being are trenched upon, die on the first inch of your territory."-Ralph Waldo Emerson: Self Reliance
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modgod is offline
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12-03-2008, 21:01
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#38
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Bladesmith to the Quiet Professionals
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Oregon, Land of the Silver Grey Sunsets
Posts: 3,886
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modgod,
Good thinking.
I've used hacksaw blades with the back ground off to slot Kydex for pancake style sheaths (starting in the pre drilled holes of course). One can go to the hardware and get the finer cutting jigsaw or other "up 'n' down" cutting blades and use a medium pair of vise grips for the handle. Lots of blades to choose from now.
Remember the vise grip handle, works better than it sounds.
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Bill Harsey is offline
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12-03-2008, 21:22
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#39
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Bladesmith to the Quiet Professionals
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Oregon, Land of the Silver Grey Sunsets
Posts: 3,886
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NousDefionsDoc
This is real good. Can you explain the process to putting the belt loops on when you get a chance?
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Did any part of this question get answered yet?
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Bill Harsey is offline
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12-03-2008, 22:23
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#40
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Area Commander
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,691
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Bill,
What are your thoughts on a scroll saw for cutting/shaping kydex?
__________________
"This is the law: The purpose of fighting is to win. There is no possible victory in defense. The sword is more important than the shield and skill is more important than either. The final weapon is the brain. All else is supplemental." - John Steinbeck, "The Law"
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Smokin Joe is offline
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12-04-2008, 09:48
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#41
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Bladesmith to the Quiet Professionals
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Oregon, Land of the Silver Grey Sunsets
Posts: 3,886
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smokin Joe
Bill,
What are your thoughts on a scroll saw for cutting/shaping kydex?
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I have one but have never tried it for cutting kydex. The scroll saw blade needs free space under the cut and this would have to be considered when trying to hold a relatively small work piece and the saw all in the correct place while running.
Other than that, I'm pretty sure I could make it work with the right blade and if it was the only saw I had, it would be cutting kydex for sure.
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Bill Harsey is offline
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12-04-2008, 10:29
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#42
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SF Candidate
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: SC
Posts: 811
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I'm interested in making a sheath for a Gerber Mark I and am thinking about using Kydex, do you have any recommendations as to where to get it from online?
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Defender968 is offline
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12-04-2008, 22:24
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#43
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Area Commander
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Harsey
I have one but have never tried it for cutting kydex. The scroll saw blade needs free space under the cut and this would have to be considered when trying to hold a relatively small work piece and the saw all in the correct place while running.
Other than that, I'm pretty sure I could make it work with the right blade and if it was the only saw I had, it would be cutting kydex for sure.
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So what you're saying is, it would be a royal pain in the ass huh? Okay I'll get a band saw instead.
"Hey honey, Bill said I HAVE to get the band saw instead. Look it says so right here on PS.com..."
__________________
"This is the law: The purpose of fighting is to win. There is no possible victory in defense. The sword is more important than the shield and skill is more important than either. The final weapon is the brain. All else is supplemental." - John Steinbeck, "The Law"
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Smokin Joe is offline
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12-05-2008, 06:39
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#45
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Guerrilla
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Southeastern PA
Posts: 207
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I have no experience with Kydex, but I have had to use a pair of linesman's pliers and/or Vise-Grips to hold a saw blade once or 100 times.
A great, pretty cheap tool to have around is a jab saw handle, like this:
http://www.stanleytools.com/default....&SDesc=Jab+Saw
You can put just about any blade in it, jigsaw, hacksaw, sawzall, etc., and makes life a lot easier, and save the Vise-Grips for what they do best, completely rounding off bolt heads.
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bravo22b is offline
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