Sharpening Scissors - Page 2

**Bill Harsey** · 04-01-2011, 04:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by CA_TacMedic

I just purchased some scrap leather...it is thinner and I am going to glue it to a 1/2" x 2" board (20" long) and then load it with the rubbing compound (on the rough side) and finish as you stated. I used my google-fu and found a lot of articles on various designs and assembly ideas. I am using a few tips from the various sites. With your permission I can post some of the links to help others out if needed unless you have one that is better suited.

The reason is I want the strop to be done correctly and spent some time searching is I was not completely clear

on the assembly parts and I wanted to avoid doing any damage to the finishing steps in sharpening.

Load the compound into the smooth side of the leather.
This is why I use the WD-40, to get the buffing compound to start to work in.
The first moment you start this it will seem like it isn't going to work. Just rub it in then keep going and after the base starts to stick and dries once, then rub more on without any WD-40.

Here the strop is just two pieces of Oak tanned leather glued together for stiffness, smooth sides out.

**Bill Harsey** · 04-01-2011, 16:08

First step, hold scissors with stable grip.
These are fly tying scissors my fishing guide and professional fly tying friend had been using in the boat. His words not mine, "they are trashed".

**Bill Harsey** · 04-01-2011, 16:13

Next step, with flat side of stone is to knock down the burrs on inside of blade flats.
Be very careful to keep stone as flat as possible on each blade.

**Bill Harsey** · 04-01-2011, 16:18

Sharpening the bevels with fine diamond stone.

**Bill Harsey** · 04-01-2011, 16:32

Checking for burr on the backside of blade with fingernail.
If no burr is perceived or felt this means not enough sharpening of the bevel has been done.

Do not change the angle of sharpening, just do some more of it and re-check until fine burr is felt.

What is not shown is visual check of any flat spots out to the point....
and there was so a bit more sharpening of the bevel needed to get done.

**Bill Harsey** · 04-01-2011, 16:40

Before this last step I final sharpened the bevels with the dark colored ceramic stone (after the fine diamond) and then did this which is the stropping of the edges by pulling the bevel backwards over the strop. I use some pressure in this step, note where the line of the scissors can be seen as first placed on the strop.

About 3 to 4 short passes each side are all I did. Then I oiled the blades and carefully closed them for the first time since sharpening began.
I do this slowly in case any burr stops the smooth closing of the scissors.
If this happens, re-strop then try again.
If this doesn't do it go back to gently re-flatting the inside of the blade, re-strop and see how they feel.

I handed the scissors back to the owner and photographer of this sequence, Barrett, to see if they passed inspection. Barret using just the tips cut a single elk hair on the long bias.
The scissors passed inspection.

x SF med · 04-02-2011, 11:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by CA_TacMedic

I just purchased some scrap leather...it is thinner and I am going to glue it to a 1/2" x 2" board (20" long) and then load it with the rubbing compound (on the rough side) and finish as you stated. I used my google-fu and found a lot of articles on various designs and assembly ideas. I am using a few tips from the various sites. With your permission I can post some of the links to help others out if needed unless you have one that is better suited.

The reason is I want the strop to be done correctly and spent some time searching is I was not completely clear

on the assembly parts and I wanted to avoid doing any damage to the finishing steps in sharpening.

Rockler and The Woodworker's store both have very nice pre made bench strops for about $20. The cost is about the same as making one yourself - less if you think about the time involved in making your own. they also have 'small' sleeves of green polishing compound... they'll last a normal guy (Not Bill) at least 3 years. Melting the compound with a lighter works for charging the strop too.

If you get a chance - go to a knife show where Wayne Goddard is giving a sharpening seminar, I try to make at least one a year and learn something new every time. Bill has been an invaluable resource in teaching me how to properly sharpen knives. I knew I was learning when he tested some turning knives I had re-faced/ re-edged/sharpened for my FiL... a smile and "I'll wrap those for you".

**Bill Harsey** · 04-02-2011, 18:27

x SF med,
You do great because you tried and paid attention.
Many don't take the first step which is just trying.

If one just tries we can sort out the details and small problems as ya go.

**Bill Harsey** · 04-04-2011, 11:43

If one has, as previously described, a pair of scissors or EMT type shears that have a loosened pivot and are worthless because of the loose pivot you can try this:

If there is no pivot screw to tighten and it's a machine swaged or press fit pivot one can try re-hammering the pivot pin.
First get some oil in the joint then try a couple taps with a flat hammer and see if it's tighter.
Place the other side of the pivot down on a solid surface preferably a flat chunk of steel then take two taps and then check, repeat and try again until the fit seems right.
Start with very light hammer taps.

It's easy to make the scissors completely not movable too.

If ya do that, the fix goes like this, drill out pivot, take measurement of pivot bore then turn a piece of 303 stainless steel on the lathe with head of correct diameter of head, cut to correct length, place in scissors with pre-greased pivot bore and joint then peen over the head.
A washer under the peened side helps with contact area. Be sure to allow for this in the pivot length.
Or just throw out the scissors.
This is why I say go carefully when hammering.

CA_TacMedic · 04-05-2011, 00:00

Quote:

If there is no pivot screw to tighten and it's a machine swaged or press fit pivot one can try re-hammering the pivot pin.
First get some oil in the joint then try a couple taps with a flat hammer and see if it's tighter.
Place the other side of the pivot down on a solid surface preferably a flat chunk of steel then take two taps and then check, repeat and try again until the fit seems right.
Start with very light hammer taps.

That is how I do most of mine.

As for the sharpening lesson, I just finished my first pair of scissors. Wow, I cannot believe how many burrs were hitting upon closing. I fixed them and sharpened the bevels as in your lesson with ultra fine diamond. Once I could feel a burr I stropped both blades. And checked for burrs...still had a couple, so I re stropped.
I am not sure if I over-sharpened and created too much burring, but I had to strop quite a bit to get the burrs down. After that the scissors are better than new. Cutting at the tips of ^" shears I cut some medium mil-spec webbing without a stumble. Thanks Bill! Worked great. One down and about 20 to go.....20 more opportunities to jack up or learn! I 'll go with learning.

Thanks Again.

DDD · 12-05-2011, 14:44

I just reread this thread, then immediately modified the method because I don't have access to a strop. Anyway I used the ceramic sticks from a Spyderco Triangle Sharpmaker, they seem sharper to me, but we'll see what the owner has to say...

**Bill Harsey** · 01-30-2012, 11:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by DDD

I just reread this thread, then immediately modified the method because I don't have access to a strop. Anyway I used the ceramic sticks from a Spyderco Triangle Sharpmaker, they seem sharper to me, but we'll see what the owner has to say...

Removing that final burr from sharpening is critical with scissors because the two edges have to sweep by each other under pressure.

If the edges are slightly ragged or rough on first closing, it flat spots the scissors blades and they are not as sharp as they could be.