11-11-2008, 22:12
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#16
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Redneck Knifemaker
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Harsey
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Kydex forms nicely to the shape of the blade even if Mr. Ken Brock always has to do things his way. 
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Mr. Harsey, you know I always do things the hard way! (ie. the redneck way)
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Ken Brock is offline
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11-12-2008, 09:22
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#17
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Gun Pilot
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Iowa and New Mexico
Posts: 2,143
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Excellent thread, guys! Y'all are schooling me.
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CPTAUSRET is offline
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11-12-2008, 15:10
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#18
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Bladesmith to the Quiet Professionals
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Oregon, Land of the Silver Grey Sunsets
Posts: 3,886
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CPTAUSRET
Excellent thread, guys! Y'all are schooling me.
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Let us know how far away you have to stand from the jet exhaust to get a good heat on the Kydex.
Had a question about where to get the Cleco fasteners for test fitting. These work so good I should have kept this classified.
I got mine from Spencer Aircraft or spenceraircraft.com
The phone is: 253-848-9349 and the last time I spoke with them, there was no minimum order.
If you use these, you will need the Clecos in the correct size for your rivet holes and one Cleco Pliers hand tool for inserting and removing. They are not usable without the pliers.
Last edited by Bill Harsey; 11-12-2008 at 15:16.
Reason: OOPS! That was the fax no. Now corrected
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Bill Harsey is offline
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11-16-2008, 23:05
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#19
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Quiet Professional
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: LA
Posts: 1,653
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This is real good. Can you explain the process to putting the belt loops on when you get a chance?
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He knows only The Cause.
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NousDefionsDoc is offline
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11-19-2008, 10:31
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#20
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Bladesmith to the Quiet Professionals
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Oregon, Land of the Silver Grey Sunsets
Posts: 3,886
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NousDefionsDoc
This is real good. Can you explain the process to putting the belt loops on when you get a chance?
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Belt loops will add extra thickness to the "stack" (combined thickness of all the layers together). The first thing I would do is make sure I have rivets or bolts long enough to hold it all together.
Hole layout is next. Belt loop has to be wide enough to hit the hole locations on the sides of the sheath. Choosing hole locations is important as we work at the top of the sheath because this changes how the sheath works if it is a clamping fit around the handle and guard area. The closer the rivet is to the top, the shorter and stiffer the spring tension of the Kydex is.
Accurate hole placement is important. I layout on kydex with a silver pencil then use a sharp locating punch to indicate the center of the hole. Do not drive the punch all the way thru the Kydex.
Next step is drilling a pilot hole with something like 1/16th or
3/32nd inch drill then using the final size drill, like the 3/16ths inch. The pilot hole keeps the drill centered as drills tend to "walk" all over the surface of kydex when starting.
If the belt loop is being added to an existing sheath, one might want to remove the top rivets to use the same holes for the belt loop attachment. I do this by drilling through the top of the rivet with a "just barely" big enough drill. If the rivets are in 3/16ths holes, I would use 3/16th drill. Drill until the top web of the rivet is gone or can be peeled away. Push out remainder of rivet with something. Do not try and drill all the way thru.
Some Kydex sheaths are made with larger bore rivets to allow bolting a belt loop or other type attachment onto the sheath later.
Edited to add:: Do not drill these rivets out.
I'm pretty sure I missed answering any of the important questions, so lets keep going.
Last edited by Bill Harsey; 11-19-2008 at 10:51.
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Bill Harsey is offline
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11-19-2008, 10:46
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#21
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Bladesmith to the Quiet Professionals
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Oregon, Land of the Silver Grey Sunsets
Posts: 3,886
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Paper patterns and pencils are the first tools I reach for when doing either Kydex or leather work. Should have posted this at the beginning but it still applies to belt loop work.
This is how I get my brain focusing on the job at hand while sometimes finding and solving problems before trying to fumble warm plastic.
Fold the paper exactly how the belt loop is to be shaped, use a ruler to make folds exactly where they are wanted. If this is not to the makers liking, get another piece of paper. Draw the hole placement in paper pattern. Test fit the paper pattern.
For leather work I've been Scotch taping more paper onto the pattern if needed instead of starting all over. Transfer the paper onto the kydex with the silver pencil. Use your very sharp pocket knife to keep a good point on this pencil. This helps a lot.
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Bill Harsey is offline
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11-19-2008, 19:23
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#22
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Redneck Knifemaker
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 174
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Mr. Harsey sir, you put wayyyyy more thought into the sheaths than I do!

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Ken Brock is offline
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11-20-2008, 10:47
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#23
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Bladesmith to the Quiet Professionals
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Oregon, Land of the Silver Grey Sunsets
Posts: 3,886
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Brock
Mr. Harsey sir, you put wayyyyy more thought into the sheaths than I do!
 
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Sorry.
Ken,
How do folks cut out Kydex if they don't have a wood type bandsaw?
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Bill Harsey is offline
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11-20-2008, 11:08
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#24
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Quiet Professional
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Free Pineland
Posts: 24,826
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Not Ken, but wouldn't a saber saw or jigsaw work?
You could even use a fine toothed hacksaw if you had to.
TR
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De Oppresso Liber 01/20/2025
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The Reaper is offline
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11-20-2008, 14:14
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#25
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Quiet Professional
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 4,539
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Reaper
You could even use a fine toothed hacksaw if you had to.
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BTDT. It works, but its tough to cut sharp angles due to the width of the blade.
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Razor is offline
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11-21-2008, 12:18
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#26
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Redneck Knifemaker
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Harsey
Sorry.
Ken,
How do folks cut out Kydex if they don't have a wood type bandsaw?
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I use a set of tin snips to cut kydex before it's formed
after I form the sheath, I generally use a saw to cut off the excess although the tin snips can be used to cut through the double thickness.
I'm using .080 kydex exclusively right now
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Ken Brock is offline
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11-21-2008, 13:29
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#27
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Guerrilla Chief
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 880
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I can vouch for Ken's work with kydex....despite the fact he can do it blindfolded, intoxicated, behind his back, his work product was excellent.
See Ken, I am your biggest 'kydex' fan!!
ss
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(adapted from: Sherwin B. Nuland, MD, surgeon and author: The Wisdom of the Body, 1997 )
Education is the anti-ignorance we all need to better treat our patients. ss, 2008.
The blade is so sharp that the incision is perfect. They don't realize they've been cut until they're out of the fight: A Surgeon Warrior. I use a knife to defend life and to save it. ss (aka traumadoc)
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swatsurgeon is offline
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11-21-2008, 13:31
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#28
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Redneck Knifemaker
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swatsurgeon
I can vouch for Ken's work with kydex....despite the fact he can do it blindfolded, intoxicated, behind his back, his work product was excellent.
See Ken, I am your biggest fan!!
ss
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I've never been blindfolded!
but thanks sir for your kind words
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Ken Brock is offline
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11-21-2008, 16:23
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#29
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Area Commander
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Harsey
Sorry.
Ken,
How do folks cut out Kydex if they don't have a wood type bandsaw?
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Dremel and final sanding is done with the green side of the wife's used dish sponge.
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"This is the law: The purpose of fighting is to win. There is no possible victory in defense. The sword is more important than the shield and skill is more important than either. The final weapon is the brain. All else is supplemental." - John Steinbeck, "The Law"
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Smokin Joe is offline
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11-21-2008, 17:56
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#30
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Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 3,045
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For a person interested in learning how to work kydex, what would be appropriate as a test item to start off with as a learning experience?
Also, would a coping saw work as a good cutting tool?
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