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Old 01-06-2010, 23:03   #16
wet dog
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Hell, he had to learn how to use an axe!!! When he's in the woods and goes to sleep HE SNORES SO LOUD ALL OF THE TIMBER FALLS DOWN and he has to cut his way out!!!

Later
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Brother, that's cold, but I LOL.
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Old 01-07-2010, 10:04   #17
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Hell, he had to learn how to use an axe!!! When he's in the woods and goes to sleep HE SNORES SO LOUD ALL OF THE TIMBER FALLS DOWN and he has to cut his way out!!!

Later
Martin

No he just steps over the fallen timber...
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Old 01-07-2010, 13:51   #18
DJ Urbanovsky
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That's a thing of beauty right there.

Bill, I was wondering if you might post a close up pic of the cross section of the head so I can see the grinding that Jim did to it?
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Old 01-09-2010, 18:48   #19
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post a close up pic of the cross section of the head so I can see the grinding that Jim did to it?
Yes that would be enlightening. Also would be interested if a bench grinder heating up the edge bothers the ability to hold an edge.
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Old 01-09-2010, 23:14   #20
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Yes that would be enlightening. Also would be interested if a bench grinder heating up the edge bothers the ability to hold an edge.
Yes it does. My experience is the best grinders are those that you can change the RPMs. Consider making a slow moving 1/4 HP belt feed grinder with a soft stone.

I mean slow, real slow, like foot pedal slow. O.K., forget the whole electrical thing, just build a slow moving foot pedal grinder.

WD
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Old 01-10-2010, 23:07   #21
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OMG, wet dog is Roy Underhill!!!

Sorry, couldn't help it.
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Old 01-10-2010, 23:11   #22
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WD where did you find a stone that size? I haven't seen one like that since I was a kid.
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Old 01-11-2010, 00:29   #23
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WD where did you find a stone that size? I haven't seen one like that since I was a kid.
In my own defense, that picture is not mine. I pulled it off the internet as an example.

I do however have one that still measures 15.5 in. Even after 3 generation of family (Swedish - Scot ancestry), 150 years have only diminished 1.5 in. of stone.

It's too old to use, it's just collecting dust in the shop.

Someday I'll put in the living room as a lamp base. I'm curently negociating with the GF to allow me to bring it in the house.

Wish me luck!!!

p.s. for those interested, I did buy two more on my last trip through rural Indiana looking for a milk cream seperator, found one. It set me back $250.

I bought the stones, no mechanics, $50 ea.
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Old 01-11-2010, 11:33   #24
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I am an officer and not supposed to do manual labor. If the axe should be sharpened by hand they should have included an NCO with it.

By the way, when I was a boy we had one of those foot pedal stones and that is exactly what we sharpened things with.
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Old 01-13-2010, 10:10   #25
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Originally Posted by DJ Urbanovsky View Post
That's a thing of beauty right there.

Bill, I was wondering if you might post a close up pic of the cross section of the head so I can see the grinding that Jim did to it?
DJ,
Good idea.
will try and do this after SHOT Show.
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Old 01-13-2010, 10:22   #26
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Bill... We've had this discussion before, but just to let everybody know, "How sharp should and Axe be?" "What angles should the edges be?" "How polished should the edges be?"

Sharpness:
As sharp as the steel will allow. When finished a good high performance racing axe (like for competition) can take a shaving off the surface of a piece of dry newspaper without going through the other side. I've done this many times, it's not myth.
The single exception I've seen is a slightly coarser edge that seems to be fsater in some pine wood.
In harder the angle is determined by what will hold up or not. In Australia the common chopping woods are very hard.

The relief and shape of the axe body is for both ability to cut deep and also very important, to release from the cut.
Angles are very acute, from 17 degrees included angle down to 12 on the edge of the bit. There are many types of "grinds" depending on the type of wood it's being used in.

Polish of the cutting edge, usually stoned to around 2000 grit but never buffed.

The old loggers who hand felled timber would use shaving sharp edges. If axes were not maintained very sharp they couldn't produce what was expected to keep their jobs and a dull axe would fatigue the user very fast.

Last edited by Bill Harsey; 01-13-2010 at 10:24.
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Old 01-14-2010, 14:15   #27
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.... and neither of us bled this weekend while inspecting the axes... this is a good thing... now I have to find my hatchets and log cutters and sharpen them... Thanks Bill, more sharpening for me....
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Too many people are looking for a magic bullet. As always, shot placement is the key. ~TR
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Old 02-12-2010, 18:43   #28
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Bill... you are a bad influence, very bad, horrible... the camp hatchet is now sharpened properly and has no chips in the edge...

amazing what one can accomplish wit ha 10" mill bastard and a DMT after a conversation with a logger...

Oh, I also got my machete sharpened the same way...
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In the business of war, there is no invariable stategic advantage (shih) which can be relied upon at all times.
Sun-Tzu, "The Art of Warfare"

Hearing, I forget. Seeing, I remember. Writing (doing), I understand. Chinese Proverb

Too many people are looking for a magic bullet. As always, shot placement is the key. ~TR
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