Quote:
Originally Posted by kgoerz
1. ISO-80 to 800
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ISO is similar to ASA. It is the old film speed equivalent. Lower/Slower is finer grain with better color and more detail, but needs more light. Higher/Faster is better in low light, or when shooting fast subjects.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kgoerz
2. White Balance-Daylight-Tungsten-Florescent.
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You can calibrate the color balance of your digicam with a sheet of white paper. The settings you list are temperatures (Kelvin) for different light conditions. Daylight is outdoor. Tungsten is arrtificial light, usually bulbs or flashes. Fluorescent is for shooting under fluorescent bulbs. Use the right one for the illumination source, or rely on the Auto setting.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kgoerz
3. level of Sharpness-Sharp-Soft.
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This controls your definition. Sharp is good for fine details, like a knife. Soft would be good for photos of your significant other, if she is over 40.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kgoerz
4. Color-Saturated-neutral-Sepia.
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This is another color setting. Saturated would be great for that sunset shot. Sepia would be nice for antique looking photos, like re-enactors or for black powder guns. Neutral is probably best for most shots.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kgoerz
5. Exposure metering-Multi pattern-Center weight-Center Spot. This is probably close to F-Stop
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Actually, that is for determining the exposure. This is for those tricky shots, such as when you are taking a beach shot of a subject with the sun behind them. Multi bases exposure off several different areas and takes an average of them all. If you use center weight, it favors the center meter, but still considers the others. If you choose center spot, it will base the exposure on the very center of your frame. Good if the subject is centered, and is the only thing you really want. The F-Stop affects depth of field as well.
Hints?
Try to use natural light, avoid the flash, shoot early or late in the day for best outdoor color, if shooting indoors, use every incandescent light you can muster, indirectly, bouncing the light off white surfaces, don't put too many subjects in the picture, use interesting backgrounds of different colors (you do not want to camo the subject, in most cases), shoot tighter on the subject than you think you need to, and arrange everything around the primary subject, which does not have to be centered, believe it or not.
HTH. Military Moron is an excellent photographer.
TR