Sharpening revisited
 

I just ordered one of Mr. Harsey's excellent T2 Rangers for all-around use. Having not set blade to whetstone in many years, I read the earlier threads on maintaining an edge.

Questions:

1. Are the DMT Diafolds still your favorite for field use, or has something better come along?

2. Has anyone tried DMT's Aligner model? Given that maintaining the correct angle is probably the hardest part of sharpening for the uninitiated, it looks pretty slick. http://www.dmtsharp.com/products/other.htm

Of course, it will probably be quite some time before my new knife needs sharpening, but I'm just thinking ahead. :munchin

Howdy jatx,
First, Thanks for getting a T-2. The blade in that is CPM S-30V, same steel we pioneered the use of with the Yarborough Knife project.

What gives this steel it's great toughness and edge holding is the vanadium content in combination with the steel being made by the Particle Metal Process and all the other exotic alloys including molecular level nitrogen being added. It still comes down to those vanadium carbides and this is why, These V carbides are harder then the aluminum oxide used in good sharpening stones. This is what makes that steel harder to sharpen.

To date there is no better grade of diamond sharpener than the DMT products and I really like the Diafolds. Please always use the finest diamond grit size to get the job done. We take away more steel faster with the diamond than any other hand method. I always use a fine unless I've shaved rifle barrel steel with the blade (Yes I have) and have do a bit more to restore the edge.

I have not yet had any experience using the sharpening quide. All sharpening done here is "freehand."

Watch what you do while sharpening any knife, be aware of what part of the edge bevel your abrading and at what angle. You can see more than you think if you just look.

I find that it helps to take a Magic Marker and carefully color the edges you are going to be sharpening.

Makes it easier to see where you are removing metal and adjust your hold for the appropriate bevel.

Especially handy on curves where it is hard to maintain the same angle.

TR

Reaper, Thanks for mentioning this,

The Magic Marker is a very good sharpening tool used just as you describe.
Be sure to clean any oil off the blade first and then after making your magic marker mark, let it dry for a few minutes so it stays on better when you have it in the oil of the sharpening stone.

Edited To Add: The reason for oil on any sharpening stone, including diamond is to float away the steel abraded from the edge off of the sharpening stone. This keeps the blade steel from filling up the sharpening stone which keeps the stone from cutting.
Yes you can use a stone dry but be prepared to clean the stone later. A fast way around here is to take the stone outside and just use WD-40 out of the pressure can to "pressure wash" it. Put out your cigar before doing this, burnt whiskers smell bad all day long.

You use oil on your diamond stones?

TR

Often I do at the bench but usually never in the field unless I'm near the pickup and have WD-40.

Another use of my hand diamond stones is to touch up carbide cutters used in the mill or drill press and High Speed Steel lathe cutters. A very light oil seems to make this go better but I always have to use a lot of paper towels to wipe and look while I'm working.

I am the paper towel monster, if I run out of those the shop get's locked up and I go to town.

Thanks guys, this is just the sort of insight I was looking for. My knife won't get anywhere near the sort of hard use many on this board subject theirs too, but I want to care for it properly nonetheless.

TR, thanks for the marker tip - I can see how that would be a big help.

For cleaning, what do you recommend? A little fresh water w/ mild detergent, followed by pressurized air and some WD-40 or something similar on the hinges?

"burnt whiskers smell bad all day long" :D

Where would we be without men of science?

Thanks Mumbleypeg,
It's good to know someone around here appreciates the depths of my skills.

Reaper,
I tried this edge marking technique for the first time sharpening "field style".

Holding the knife still in my hand (hand resting on knee while seated to simulate field conditions) and using the small diamond stone to touch up the edge, I could see exactly where every stroke of the "stone" touched.

In the past I relied on lot's of light and magnification to do the same with much less certainty.

Results of fine angle adjustment of sharpening diamond are easy to track while your working.

This works GREAT!

Post Script: If your in the field with a hard worked blade and you have to touch it up with no possible felt pen in sight, just watch for the fresh bright lines on the edge the stone is making as you sharpen and adjust accordingly. The more you look, the more you see.

Hey!
I just started thinking, how many things do I use the diamond sharpening tools on in the shop and would this be useful to others at home or in a far away place.

Here is a short list of tools I touch up with a simple diamond hand stone:

Diagonals (for cutting wire)
Drill bits, high speed steel, cobalt and carbide.
Screwdrivers, (deburring the bit after abuse)
Scissors (best sharpening possible, no stop gap measure)
Leather knives
X-Acto blades, (easier than changing them all the time)
lathe tools
milling cutters, high speed steel and carbide
carbide scribe (for layout work on metals)
machete (brush duty)
Hoof trimmers (horse)
loppers (garden brush and landscape)
Axe,(touch up only)
pocket knife

You own a knife??

TR

Yes, there is one around here somewhere.

It's time to bump this one back up front.

I've been very pleased with the continued service of the Diafold diamond tools, lately with my machete that I've been trying out where I would normally used an axe or saw.

I'm going to get some pics to post here on how I sharpen the machete because there might be a few guys who still use one of these around here.

The only problem with hitting limbs real hard that are overhead is that if the machete cuts clear thru on the first hit the blade may rotate past the "grip range" and come out of the holding hand and stick in something that we don't want it to.
That sucker has come out of my hands three times in the past couple weeks. The last time left a slight mark. At least it was sharp!

Are you referring to animal limbs, or tree limbs?

How does it work on flesh?

TR