What Do QP's Cut With Knives?
 

This line of questions is for Quiet Professionals:

What do you guys cut with your knives while at work both home and away?

I'm looking for a kind of materials list, what the stuff is made of?
How hard is it to cut?
How often do you have to do it and what kind of blade works best?

Yes there is a reason for these questions.

Here are just a few of the ones I have and currently do:
Rope
Webbing
Skinning fresh catch (deer/chicken/snake/fist/etc)
Food (beef/fish/chicken)
Bambo
Wood (cutting trail/trimming small wood materials for snares)
Cardboard in boxes
Plastic ties
Cloth
Prying open cans when you do not have a can opener (I hate this but you have to do what you have to Do.)
Cutting wire another poor choice but it happens sometimes

Paper (to include cardboard), plastic (hard like clamshell packaging or Zip-ties and soft, like MRE packs or electrical insulation), nylon and polypro cordage (like ropes, 550 cord, tubular nylon webbing, seatbelt webbing, fishing line, etc.), fabric (like canvas, tarps, uniforms, web gear, and clothing), leather, drywall, explosives, det cord, time fuse, wood, shingles, fiberglass, tape, hair, monofilament line, metal (copper, brass, lead, aluminum, tin cans, magnesium, sheet metal, steel, since commo wire has a stainless conductor and snare wire is steel as well), firestarting with flint or ferrocerium sticks, skinning and preparing game, peeling, preparing, and portioning food, and occasionally, human skin.

I also use my knives far too frequently for other than cutting purposes, like prying, scraping, turning screws, etc., though since I started carrying a multi-tool, I do a lot less of that.

About the only materials I can say that I have not tried to cut with a knife are concrete, stone, and glass.

Cutting difficulty depends on the hardness of the material, its density, and the sharpness or edge geometry of the blade. Sometimes, it needs to be a razor, and other times, it needs to be an axe. Clearly, the size, weight, shape, and length of the blade can determine the appropriate geometry.

The majority of the use is about what you would use one for in the shop or around the farm.

As with a gun, the best one for the job is the one you have with you at the time you need it.

Hope that helps.

TR

We used to use metal bands on weapons boxes, team boxes and bigalo packs, especially when flying commercial. My usual engineer, known as “F-ing Tommy” would always band the box with the cutters. I know I pried many metal bands apart with my fixed blade knife. I also broke a blade in half chopping firewood, sent it back to the knife maker in Florida who replaced it; and also sent a guide to sharpening!!! I guess I am also the only non 18C to cut demo with something other than a “real” demo knife. I also turned it into a spear once for fishing in a river at Camp Roberts when Group extended our stay beyond our rations…
HTH

I can echo:

Flesh of fish and game,
natural fiber and nylon rope,
metal packing bands and aluminum cans,
paper and cardboard,
wood in the form of saplings and tree limbs,
and cloth.

Jim

I can also echo all of the above mentioned items being cut with knives.

One additional thing to add is that we tend to not always use the proper tool for the job. If a knife is made to cut up to certain sized items we will push the limits if it means mission accomplishment; mostly due to the proper knife/tool not being readily available. I've used knifes as hammers, pry bars, etc; for example the first thing I used my Yarborough to cut was wire, because it was the best option of what I had available and it worked like a charm.

Very comprehensive lists. The worst challenge I've faced recently was the clamshell packaging. That stuff is a royal PITA - and it'll hurt you too! :D (Sorry Bill, it's true and I couldn't resist. :p ) The one thing nobody else has noted is shaving. (I was sorting through the safe last night and "found" my Yarborough - it still passes the sharpness test. Thanks Bill, you do great work.) Peregrino

I have only one item to add, 55-gal drum. Had to cut a hole large enough to vent and pour the contents out. It did a number on my knife and took me several days to revive the edge.

Pigs (live tissue) have to sharpen even S30V blades after a couple long days of wounding.

Like already mentioned Plastic would have to be the big one these days. If you go shopping you can guarantee something is going to be packaged in plastic.
Overseas Wood, cardboard and paper would be be number one...ya, ya I know its all wood.

Dan,
I didn't even consider asking about the "proper" use of a knife. As you and others have mentioned, the blade will get used for anything it's needed for.
This is what I'm looking for.

Peregrino,
Yes I've read somewhere about that plastic being tough stuff.

For you guys's smaller blades, do you like serrations or no serrations?

Bill - All of my folders have serations. Unfortunately that seems to be most of what's available in the cheaper stuff I'm using for beaters. None of the ones I'm currently using have more than 1/2 though. Personally I'm about fed up with them and probably won't be getting any on my next "quality" purchase. Truthfully, I've never been happy with my ability to maintain a serated edge. My worst experience was with a Police Spyderco - it's ruined and can't be sharpened because of the way the blade was tempered (per Spyderco's owner at Blade). I've got several opportunities between now and Xmas to sneak a couple quality folders past HH6 and I don't think they'll be serated. Are you still active with LW? Peregrino

Cat holes
 

Well I guess I'm the only one that used my field knife to dig cat holes while in the field.

I'm going to have to get the 18Ds after the rest of you.

Pete done that and I figure probally 80% here have but forgot like me to mention that. Just had to do something I never thought I would have to do. Cut into a small AC (Cesna 210). Bill the GB did a good job in the little time I had to do it. Got a little hot... but I will have to sharpen it today.

Attachment 8165

SF BHT,

Thank you for the pics. You can get that blade up to around 975 degrees F before any damage to the temper starts.*
Good job too.




*This is a secondary tempering range for that steel which we do not use because at that temp, the chromium continues to form carbides, drawing usable chromium from the matrix of the steel resulting in a slightly lowered stain resistance. It still has all it's edge holding and toughness.