My department switched from S&W 686s to Glocks about 1989. I was an instructor and I never liked the looks or feel of the 17. I was also issued a 14 and eventually a 26 for plain clothes wear. Then we switched to 21s and I was happy until I retired.
Felt good, shot good, fed reliably and used the proper 45acp round.

Militec-1 is an oil that enters the pores of the metal if properly heated and leaves a lubricating residue or film behind.

TW-25B is a grease. I like grease for the rails and reciprocating parts as it usually sticks better than oil.

I have no experience with Gun Butter.

My experience has been to coat all of the metal surfaces with Militec and heat it up for the bonding. Then I use the TW-25B to lube all of the engagement surfaces.

This technique actually left the Glock slide a bit slippery to manipulate, even after the excess was wiped off. To this day it feels almost like an NP-3 gun to my touch.

HTH.

TR

Two thoughts.

A good friend of mine, Todd Green, has made a business out of sponsored endurance tests. He put over 60,000 rounds through an M&P and over 90,000 rounds through a P30 before failure. Teachers and Students of the Pistol

Any mechanical device is subject to unexpected failure. Whatever you choose, have a plan B for when it does.

Plan B.

I did as I was told and went to the gunshop and they had no gun butter but they had the Militec and the TW 25B so that is what I bought. I also got some better ammo also. I field stripped it and there was hardened grease in the slide rails and after some work with carb cleaner and Gun Scrubber, I got the grease softened up enough to get most of it out. Then I coated it with the Militec and used a heat gun on it. Then I lubed the rails and called it good.

The empty PMC brass was loaded back up with max (not +P) loads of HS6 and Power Pistol and Hornady 90 and 115 gr XTP.

Took the pistol back to the range and it was just a different gun all together. There was almost no recoil and very little right twist any more. Everything feed perfectly without a single stoppage. The funny thing is that the 124 Golden Saber +P had less muzzle movement than the PMC ammo had the first time around.

The whole issues seems to have been the hardened factory grease and once that was gone it was really smooth and pleasant.

G L O C K ... (imho), your best choice for reliability and function. In Bagdad, I carried a G19 in a Fobus rig, and I'm sure there are many of you out there that chose the same sidearm / holster combo... you can't beat perfection.

I wasn't sure where this is. For those in the same boat:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/06...s/DSC07117.jpg

Come to think of it, that part came from the factory with significant amount of copper lubricant just like on the rails. One of these days, I'll take the armorer course.

*

the Armorer's course

6 hours of how great Gaston Glock is and 2 hours of actually working on guns :D

that's partly a joke, but there's a little truth there too

the Armorer's course is pretty interesting

What vintage is your Gerber?

The Gerber was purchased in 1969 most likely at Ranger Joe's at Ft Benning. It went with me to RVN and never ever saw the top a a C-ration. I carried a M-16 bayonet as a work knife and it was one of the most worthless pieces of steel ever invented. Now the old M-1 bayonet which was about four feet long and could reach out there and gouge somebody at a respectable distance was a fine piece of hardware except for the rifle it was attached to was a little on the heavy side and slow on the cyclic rate. :D

The most important aspect of lubrication is having it in the first place.

I've been using 20w motor oil for a year or better now, and it's doing everything I want it to.

Hackathorn told us how he has been using 5w synthetic for years now, too.

I've used pretty much everything other than TW25B, but I still haven't found a reason to stop using synthetic motor oil, yet.

Temp for Militec
 

Reaper,
How long and at what temp do you heat the parts for lubrication with the Militec-1?
Boomer

The instructions are on the bottle. It says to heat to "operating temperature" by either firing or a heat gun and then wipe dry. I assumed operating temperature was somewhere less than glowing redhot. ;) So I heated it to mild warm with a heat gun and wiped it dry enough that it wouldn't attract dust.

I use the same Mobile ! synthetic oil that I use in my vehicles on my weapons, and TW25-B on the parts where grease is better than oil. Never had a problem.