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Same thinking
You know, I have been watching this thread and reading all the very experienced information that is being offered. Again, as far as caliber; I know there are better rounds out there and all but like The Reaper stated, I can basically go anywhere in my neck of the woods and pick up a box of 30'06. Not so with some of the other calibers mentioned. Yes, they may or are better rounds out there but I am weighing all the factors into this.
What longrange1947 had to say has gotten me to think a bit. .308 vz .30'06. I really do not want to go out of the normal at this point. I have fired .30'06 and .270 and though there is a small difference not enough to make me want to NOT practise. Again, I have not been behind one all day, so after longer periods of time behind one, my mind may change. Is there a round out there that is a good round that I would be able to walk into my local wally world and pick some up? Just want to know because last time I was there, I did not see any of the prior mentioned calibers on the shelf. I appreciate all the advise and knowledge coming in, but please remember this is a starting point for a newbie and is subject to progression. Thanks, |
30-06
Have to sadly agree with longrange1947. I use Hornady 06 150gr SST Interlock Light Magnum (at least until my stockpile runs out) with 3100fps at the muzzle and after 5-7 rounds it requires deliberate concentration not to flinch at trigger break (beats the hell out of you), something I am not used to. My .243 (100gr LightMag Interbond) has the same arc to 500yrds (within an inch) and spends a lot more time on the range/field and produces impressive groups. Also, 06 is the only center fire rifle of mine with a recoil pad, including other .30s. With all that said it shoots flat and quarter sized groups (if you're not flinching), 100yrd +1.4, 500 yrds -37.8 at a price (was 40 bucks a box and tweaked shoulder). The newer less brutal Superformance has more of an arc and is still pricey.
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Geek alert
I went to Guns and Ammo's ballistics site, and pulled some numbers. Here's some comparisons of some different calibers. The numbers I found were the best bullets in relatively similar weights, per caliber. Rifles zeroed at 200 yards.
Muz Vel. 500yd vel Muz.Energy 500yd Energy 500 meter traj. .308 Winchester (150gr) 3000fps 1942fps 2997lbs 1256lbs -41.4 inches (180gr) 2740fps 1870fps 3000lbs 1395lbs -47.1 inches .300 Win Mag (150gr) 3135fps 2146 fps 3273lbs 1534lbs -35.7 inches (180gr) 3100fps 2214 fps 3840lbs 1960lbs -34.9 inches (200gr) 2930fps 2030 fps 3810lbs 1840lbs -40.4 inchesl 7mm rem.mag (150gr) 3110fps 2200fps 3222lbs 1612lbs -34.8inches (175gr) 2854fps 2011fps 3166lbs 1573lbs -42.1inches .260 Rem (125gr) 2950fps 2010 fps 2320lbs 1075lbs -40.6inches (140gr) 2750fps 1810 fps 2352lbs 1021lbs -47.2inches For giggles: M193 5.56mm (55gr) 3250fps 1755fps 1289lbs 376lbs -63.09(100 yard zero) That 180 grain .300 win mag round is a beast. |
I've been following this thread a bit and it looks like the QPs (and other experienced hands) have led you on the right track.
Since you've choosen the Rem 700 action (excellent choice), I would recommend the .308 over the 30-06. You will find a much greater variety of off the shelf match ammo in 308 vs 30-06 for shooting groups. If you want your rifle to shoot the best, you need to feed it as such. And knock-down hunting ammo is plentiful in both rounds. Most importantly, DON'T OVERLOOK THE BREAK-IN PROCESS! |
Very good points, to be sure. TR made a good point about ammo availability, the OP mentioned survival, and what is better for survival than a universal cartridge. Gene's mentioned .260 which is a great cartridge but has not made the .308 obsolete any more than .338 has made .50 or 300WM obsolete. The .260 suffers from lack of factory loadings and a weak selection of brass, there is a neck donut issue to contend with when forming .260 from .243. It is hard to beat the bullet availability in the 6.5mm though, until you look at the BC's of the 7mm bullets, haha. I have wanted to build my own .260 for quite some time but every time I think about it, the .284 Win (parent case of 6.5-284) just beats it out. Then I think about reloading for another cartridge, and I go with .308, haha.
I realize there's a lot of love for the Remington 700, but it's not the end all-be all. In fact one I bought recently is not very impressive at all. The AAC version has a threaded barrel and a 10 twist. Unless you are shooting subsonics, you don't need 10 twist, in fact Berger says that for its 210gr VLD only an 11 twist is required. And that's for a VLD, with a secant ogive and a long overall profile. The Hogue stock is...far less than a good stock. I can make my stock touch the barrel with only light pressure, actually it has a small patch that's constantly touching the barrel due to the stock not being straight. My point here is don't overpay for a slightly tweaked 700. I have written a primer on the 700 which looks at its pros and cons. I will be posting it soon on my website, after some further review. It's not as in depth as Stuart Otteson, but I can include things which he did not. TS, you mentioned looking funny hunting with a TRG, but it's a very popular hunting rifle in Europe, and my buddy's former TL bagged an Elk with a TRG in 338 last year. The TRG does have its downsides, but for a mass produced rifle it is very hard to fault. A note on break in, or the fallacy thereof...I would suggest doing a google search for "objective research on barrel break-in procedures". Basically, barrel break-in is unnecessary with a good quality barrel. I didn't break in my TRG, nor my custom .243 AI, and both have produced several sub .5 moa 5 shot groups, (basically as good as I can hold). Justin |
I've read thru this thread and am amazed at how much free education this sight provides. Tonight i was invited on a November boar hunt in central Calif and accepted the invitation. Would a .260 be enough for boar? am I adequately equipped if I buy a 700 in .308? this would be my first boar hunt and I don't want to show up ill prepared or looking like a mall ninja.. please advise..
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Do you think if I can get that AAC for 600-650 that that is a good price? I want the threads and twist because I do eventually want to shoot subs out of it with a can. Mostly just for fun but I was reading about guys hunting (white tail) with subs and had some success. As far as the stock, I have heard nothing but bad things about it. A buddy of mine has an AICS he said he will sell me but if that turns out to be too much what about just a HS precision. |
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AICS is heavy but I like them. I would try it out - people either love it or hate it - at least get behind the stock to see how it feels. I stay away from HS precision other than the ones that come standard on Remington rifles. They hired the Ruby Ridge sniper and I have a personal problem with that. Also they are thin shelled with foam filler - I've cracked more than one. Take a look at Manner's stocks. They are really strong and a solid company. |
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On a custom Krieger barrel or aftermarket equivalent, fire lapping can be over looked because they are done by hand in shop. If he's going to buy a stock 700 then it would be wise to break it in. Fine steel particles and burs left in the barrel need to be smoothed out, and not just cleaned or shot out after 20 straight rounds. The benefits don't only contribute to accuracy but extended barrel life as well. In closing, it's obviously a controversial subject that can be debated and barrels have come a long way in the past 20years, but it doesn't hurt to do it. Just as modern vehicles can tread nearly 10k miles before needing an oil change, but why take the risk?
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re: precision rifle
I own a Steyr Scout (Jeff Cooper Edition) in .308 caliber and would highly recommend purchasing one. I would consider it precise yet practical. It is capable of shooting into 2 minutes of angle or less (4") at 200 yards/meters (3 shot groups). .308 is a widely available cartridge. Go to this website to find out more http://www.steyrscout.org/project.htm
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